Australians Bernie and Yvonne Katchor continue their cruising adventures in Panama. A jug of gas is stolen and they get into trouble with the Congresso at Tubaula. The Katchors are currently cruising in the San Blas Islands in Panama. For information on joining them there click here

Kuba and Tubaula Islands

It was windy and a man had paddled with a receipt book to collect tax money for Kuba Island from us. He told us he was the Saila of Kuba but we knew it was our friend Pablo who was Saila. This man told us Pablo was a false Saila and demanded money. He then said that he had paddled a long way for nothing so we must give him a dollar. He finally left disgruntled.

The next morning we discovered our 8-gallon jug full of gas had been stolen. Valencio arrived in an outboard powered canoe to tell us he was angry we had not been to the Congresso at Tubaula and paid our respects and dues. Yvonne explained the Saila Pablo from Kuba had given us permission to enter the river. No matter he said we must visit the Saila from Tubaula, as Tubaula was the paramount village. When we told him of the theft and showed our other fuel jug his wife stood up in the canoe and began shouting. Apparently our jug of fuel had been offered to Valencio and his wife recognized our can. Valencio told us to see him and our fuel can would be returned.

After anther grand walk we dinghied to Tubaula and went to the Congresso. There was a lot of activity with people requesting permission to go off the island and other matters such as husband and wife arguments. Many people were waiting and the crowd of children who escorted us were sent away. Eventually the Saila sat before us and read a newspaper. Valencio arrived and another man and we entered the room and sat opposite the four men whereupon a long speech was made by the Saila which Valencia summed up as why did we go into a river we had no permission to enter. So much for our gasoline, which we believed, was being discussed with such emotion and length of speeches.

We explained Pablo the Saila from Kuba, gave us permission. Both villages cover the same territory which is complex, especially for Kuba, as Tubaula is larger and was there first. 100 years ago people moved to Kuba and it developed. The Saila and Valencia discussed that Pablo was given a photo for permission to enter the river (a fact we had not told them). We were given 24 hours reprieve whilst they researched the crime we had committed. We returned at four the next day and after a while were seated before another Saila with a really large hat, the Saila of yesterday and Valencia. This Saila spoke non-stop for an hour whilst everyone listening nodded heads at appropriate moments. Finally we were given a receipt for $5 which we had to pay. Yvonne asked about the gasoline and would we get it back without paying more money. Yes we would get our tank full of gasoline and pay no more. Could we go into the river tomorrow? There was one river in the combined territory we had missed. A decision on the river will be made after the transaction is finalized we were told.

We sat through a long speech from the hat. The translation was we could only anchor, we could not take photographs, we could not enter rivers, we could not do anything except anchor. We were shown a huge paperback which was the Law of Kuna Yala and that part of it said a fine of $1000 a day would me made to Cinematographers filming without permission. Lucky the word for Cinematograph is the same in Kuna as English so we explained we were not doing this type of filming. The Saila was only pointing out his authority to refuse us permission to take pictures was backed by the laws of Kuna Yala.

We were disappointed but in fact it was not a bad decision by the Saila, as later explained to us. If visitors do not come in to their area in yachts no stealing occurs and no white babies are left on the island. In fact I see no benefits that visitors bring to a community such as this one. They still treasure their own warm beliefs and the zillions of churches rushing about taking monies off people in South America wide are not here.

Our gasoline? Wait for a while it will be delivered. At 6.30 we were told to come in the morning as the key was in the mountains in a Sailas pocket. We arrived at midday to be told the gasoline would be ready at two so we spent time watching Justo building his mother a new house. At two we were told the tank is on Kuba so Yvonne asked if we could go and get it. With Justo aboard we set off to get the tank. Eventually, on Kuba, we were sent to the Congresso where a Saila, not our friend Pablo, gave an extra long speech, which I tried to interrupt, but Justo made me wait until it ended. The result was we were given the empty tank and told, when I objected, “The Saila is premium.”